Buying/Selling/Trading/Auction - PART I GENERAL

For Toy-related Newsgroups

Frequently Asked Questions & Posting Guide

Developed and Maintained by Eric G. Myers & Scott J. Gordon

Version 2.0 - 6/98

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FAQ Index | General | Buying | Selling | Trading | Auctions



GENERAL

Q1.1: Are my toys, action figures, etc. worth anything?
A1.1: The best answer is: "Maybe." Some toys are worth  several hundred
dollars because of their vintage, rarity or collectibility. Other toys 
may be worth less than the original retail price. And the vast majority 
of toys currently being bought and sold are actually worth the suggested 
retail price. The only way to find out if you have trash or treasure is 
to do some research (see Q below).


Q1.2: What are my toys worth?
A1.2: The standard logic applies here. Ultimately, there are only two
factors that determine how much a toy (or other item) is truly worth.
The first factor is how much someone is willing to pay you for that item.
The second factor is how much money someone would have to offer
you to get you to sell that item. There are price guides that may or may
not be helpful. (See Q1.4 below)

Q1.3: What is the best way to determine values/prices for my toys? 
A1.3:  The best way to determine the going price for a specific item on 
this newsgroup is to look at other people's ads and see what they are 
asking for the same item. This may take some patience since not all toys 
are advertised with the same frequency. If you want to sell your item 
more quickly, you might try pricing it below the other ads you see. If 
you are more patient, you might ask more. If you are really in doubt, you 
might try posting a nicely worded question describing the item in 
sufficient detail (both the specifics of the item and its condition) to 
the appropriate newsgroup. If you are asking about an item that is 
currently shipping, in production or in stores, don't be surprised if you 
receive an answer along the lines of "It's worth what you paid for it: 
Retail Price!" (see Q1.9: below on the Scalpers vs. The Price Police 
controversy).

A little bit of extra research might be in order, especially if your 
items are vintage. Look at the ads in your favorite toy magazine and 
see what other dealers are asking for the item. Go to local toy shows 
and cruise the dealer tables to get a sense of the range of prices. Also, 
you might want to check to see if the item is actually *selling* at that 
price rather than just sitting there. A combination of research and 
patience will be to your advantage.

Q1.4: Are there any price guides that I should look at?
A1.4: There are several price guides available (even some on-line). These
may vary considerably in their estimation of an item's worth. The prices
quoted in these guides may be considerably different than the going rate
for the same items on Usenet newsgroups.  In addition, many guide
prices are culled from dealers who have a vested interest in keeping
values high. It is also important to note that distribution of items 
often varies by region. An item that is scarce in Podunk, may be 
plentiful in Poughkeepsie. Thus, that item may sell for more in Podunk 
even though it is easily found elsewhere. It can be very situational.

The prices listed in price guide are usually for Mint condition items 
with Mint packaging (i.e., card, box, etc). If the item you have is 
loose, or has worn or damaged packaging, you can expect a considerably 
lower value. Do not expect a dealer to pay you guide price for your toys. 
In most cases, a dealer will pay considerably less (though perhaps more
than retail) for newer toys. In addition, most toys sold on this
newsgroup sell for well below the guide price (except perhaps on items
already priced at suggested retail).

Here are a few resources for you to consult:

     ACTION FIGURE NEWS & TOY REVIEW
     556 Monroe Turnpike
     Monroe, CT 06468
     Sample copies are available for $6.35. Subscriptions are $21.95/six
     issues and $39.95/a year for 12 issues.
   
     BECKETT'S HOT TOYS
     15850 Dallas Parkway
     Dallas, TX  75248
     URL: http://www.beckett.com
     Subscriptions are $34.95 per year for 12 issues.

     TOMART'S ACTION FIGURE DIGEST
     3300 Encrete Lane
     Dayton, OH 45439-1944
     URL: http://www.tomart.com
     E-mail: [email protected]
     Sample copies are available for $8.00. Subscriptions are 
     $30.00/year for six issues.

     TOYFARE: THE GUIDE TO COLLECTIBLE TOYS
      Toyfare Subscription Department
      P.O. Box 658
      Yorktown Heights, NY 10598
      $29.95/year for twelve issues.     

     TOY SHOP
     Circulation Dept. ABAMJR
     700 E. State ST.
     Iola, WA 54990-0001
     Phone 715-445-2214
     Fax: 715-445-4087
     Credit card orders: 800-258-0929
     One year subscription (26 issues) for $26.95 in the US (second class
     delivery).  There's also a whole bunch of different rates for 
     different delivery methods and delivery rates to foreign countries.
     
     WHITE'S GUIDE TO COLLECTING FIGURES
     Collecting Figure
     Subscriptions
     P.O. Box K-46
     Richmond, VA  23288
     $4.95 per issue US, $5.95 per issue Canada, $5-$10 per back issue.
     Subscriptions are $34.95 for 12 issue, $18.95 for 6 issue.
   


Q1.5: What do all those abbreviations stand for (e.g., MOC, FS, WTB, 
     WTT, MIB, NRFB, etc)?
A1.5: 
               	AUC - Auction

               	FS - For Sale

               	FT - For Trade

               	MIB - Mint-in-box 
               	From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ:
     		"A toy is MIB if the toy inside is mint.   MIB 
     		says that the box is,  well, a box.  MIB says nothing 
		about box condition, an important aspect of value."

               	MIMB - Mint-in-mint-box 
               	From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ:
               	"A toy is MIMB if the toy inside is mint 
               	and the box that the toy is in is in mint condition.  
		Both the box and the toy that is inside it must be in 
		mint condition in order to fall under this category.

               	MOC - Mint-on-card 
     		From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ:
     		"This means the figure is  in original unopened package.  
		If there is any way the figure  could  be removed or has  
		been removed, then it's *not* MOC. MOC says nothing about 
		the condition of the card, which is the most important 
		factor in the value  of carded figures."

               	MOMC - Mint-on-mint-card
     		From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ:
     		"This means the figure is in an original, 
     		unopened, mint condition package.  Both the card and the 
		figure inside must be in mint condition to fall under 
		this category."

               	NRFB/P - Never-removed-from-box/package

               	TT - To Trade

               	WTB - Wanted to buy

               	WTD - Wanted

               	WTT - Wanted to Trade


Q1.6: What is the C1 - C10 system of grading and how does it work?
A1.6: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ:

     "This scale is usually used to grade carded figures and boxed toys.
     It  was  designed to be more specific and quantitative than a scale 
     based  on individual terms.    C-10 is absolutely  mint,   perfect,
     free of defects.  C-1 is totally beat up.   What goes in between is 
     highly subjective.   No matter  what  anyone  tells you,   there is 
     no absolute meaning  to  this scale,  and each collector uses their 
     own relative grading.    It is best to continue to buy from dealers 
     you trust after you get a feel for their grading scale from some of 
     their samples.

     When    buying  carded  or  packaged  items,    always  ask  for  a 
     description   of all defects in addition to this C-1 to C-10  scale 
     grading.   Some  typical defects  in  carded figures and boxed toys 
     include  (but are not  limited to):   yellowed bubble,   edge wear,
     creasing,  bends,  card is not flat,  bubble  is  crushed,   bubble 
     has ding,  bubble has dent (bigger  than  a ding),   tears on card,
     bubble separated from card over a small section,  card  colors  are 
     faded,  cellophane ripped,  price tag still in  place, sticker tear 
     (from removing price tag), card is punched.

     The   prices  listed  in  price guides for carded figures  are  for
     C-10  samples.   The  price  drops dramatically (sometimes to about
     the   same price as a loose mint figure)  if there are  significant
     defects."

     For a more in depth look at grading carded action figures,
     try this new guide:


     Grading Guide for Carded Action Figures

Q1.7: What does it mean when a card is punched?
A1.7: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ:
   
     "It  means the piece of cardboard for the rack hole is missing from
     the card."

Q1.8: What is the best way to store carded figures?
A1.8: From the rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting FAQ:

     "Your   best  bet  to avoid yellowing and other damage is to  store
     your  carded   figures  in comic bags with a comic backing  board.
     Place  the board  behind  the card inside the bag and then seal the 
     bag  with  tape along  the bag (taping the bag to itself).    Comic 
     boxes  make convenient storage  units for carded figures stored  in 
     these comic  bags.    Sealing carded  figures in comic bags reduces 
     damage due to light, temperature, humidity, etc."


Q1.9: What is the deal with these never ending "Scalpers vs. The Price
Police" threads/flamewars?
A1.9: This has been one of the most contentious debates on the 
rec.toys.* newsgroups. There are basically two camps here. The term 
"Scalper" has been used to describe those people who sell currently 
available toys at prices above retail price (sometimes at several times 
the retail cost). The "Price Police" refers to those people who follow-up 
ads or otherwise post in regard to the sale prices, false information, or 
any number of other things that they perceive as wrong, unfair, etc. 

Which side is right? Neither. And Both. An individual has the right to
sell their items for whatever price they want. In addition, anything an
individual posts is subject to comment....including prices. However,
neither side has the moral high ground or the right to be abusive to
anyone else.

It is doubtful that you will be able to add any new insight to this 
debate that hasn't already been discussed ad nauseam. It's also doubtful 
that you will be able to convert anyone to your point of view. However, 
if you still feel the need to contribute your collected wisdom to this 
tiresome subject, please do so with respect and without the abusive 
language or hostility that have been a hallmark of past eruptions of this 
debate. Foul language and angry rhetoric will only get your argument 
ignored and/or marginalized by the audience you are trying to speak to.

Q1.10: I have figure X and it is on the wrong card? Is this worth big 
bucks?
A1.10: These "error figures" have been frequently sighted by many people.
To date, they have generated little collector interest in general. These
errors can be quite common in some lines of toys (e.g., Iron Man, ST:
Voyager Janeway w/ Torres trading card, etc.). Some collectors really
value these mistakes. Others feel that error figures are actually less
desirable because the package and figure are not truly "mint."  The
bottom line returns to the standard logic: Its worth what someone will
pay you for it or what you are willing to sell it for.

Q1.11: What are the steps of contact for a good Internet transaction?
A1.11: Frequent contact by both parties is essential in successfully
completing a transaction. This may take some time since contact needs
to be made at certain stages and not everyone checks their e-mail daily.
Various other things can delay a transaction, but contact should be
made by both parties to assure a smooth completion. The general points
of contact are as follows:

The Buyer should e-mail or otherwise contact the seller:

1. To indicate initial interest
2. As often as necessary to nail down the details of the deal.
3. When payment has been sent.
4. When goods have been received.

The seller should e-mail or otherwise contact the buyer:

1. To acknowledge initial interest and indicate if the goods are still 
   available.
2. As often as necessary to nail down the details of the deal.
3. When payment has been received.
4. When payment has cleared (if applicable).
5. When goods have been sent.


Both seller and buyer should contact the other party if there are any
delays on their part (e.g., going out of town, illness, etc.). A little
contact goes a long way to reassuring both parties that they are not
being mistreated.